We are not in the business of selling equipment or advocating equipment that somehow makes it 'natural horsemanship'. Fad equipment such as sticks are not necessary. However, there are some basic recommendations for both yours and the horses safety, comfort and control . Some or all of this equipment may need to be a part of your equipment depending on your needs. Our trainers will advise on what may be necessary.

 

Rope Halter

halter

The so-called rope halter is these days, usually made of a synthetic material/composition, which is ok but check the softness and go for as soft as possible. Some synthetics are very rough.

Watch the horsemanship tip below on how to tie a rope halter.

 

 

Long Lead Ropes

lead

Avoid lunge lines that a thin and lack 'feel'. Yacht braid type rope is best. A 3m to 3.7m length (10 foot - 12foot) is extremely useful. The rope may have a bull snap (heavy duty clip) but preferably not during vigorous training. The heavy snaps may flip up and hit a horse on the side of the mouth and split open the lips. It is best to have a spare 3m lead with a snap for times of low activity. Also, a 6.1m to 6.7m length (20 foot - 22 foot) is fantastic for float training and other vigorous exercises. It keeps you out of the kicking range and makes dealing with excited horses much safer.

 

Gloves

When handling ropes during vigorous exercises, wool lined rigger gloves are highly recommended to avoid rope burn, enhance your grip and thereby increase safety and control.

 

Dressage Whip

whip

A 110cm (approximate) dressage whip, cheapest version with woven perlon cover (nylon braided) outer sheath protection is preferred. Avoid fibreglass only, which does not have an outer nylon braided sheath as they splinter and can be hazardous for you and the horse. Oh and by the way, a whip is not "un-natural or cruel". A whip is simply to be used as an extension of your arm and is much more effective due to its lightness and ease of control than a stick or rope spinning. It is the way a whip, stick or rope is used that determines whether it is cruel or not! We teach emotional control of the handler, not just for the horse.

Driving Whip

(In the pic, part of the shaft is not shown due to its length.) 

The 'Nylon Carriage Driving Whip' is an excellent tool for assisting in our lungeing, float training and spook control exercises etc. It is lighter than the so called 'Carrot Stick' or 'Handy Stick' often seen in natural horsemanship, which means more people are capable of using it in a coordinated manner without straining hand, arm and shoulder muscles. Again, it is not for 'whipping' the horse. It is a very long extension of the arm designed to keep you out of the kicking range. This is a bow top driving whip, which means the white cord at the top is not a lash, not as stiff as the shaft but bows. Technically, it is a woven perlon cover with spun white lash and PVC grip, black shaft only. Note that it has a thick handle approximately 25mm and the shaft looks like a riding crop. The white bow cord is 60cm with an 18cm lash at the end. Measurements may differ from supplier to supplier, which is not important. However, what is important, is that this whip can either be 'cracked' (you do not have to be a ‘rip-snorter' stockman) or simply held out and moved to motivate the horse forward or in other directions.

Fear of whips? I often hear people say “ my horse is scared of whips”. This is actually all the more reason to use one and train it not to be scared. However, we agree that it must be used in the correct manner and that's what we will teach you.

 

Full Cheek Snaffle Bit

bit

Yes, despite a lot of marketing hype of naural horsemanship, we do use bits. In part because most people do have to use them and also because they offer great control and safety. However, we do train people how to use them properly for safety, comfort and control. A bit does not mean that things need to be harsh and somehow is in appropriate for natural horsemanship.

Now we have that out of the way, it is best to have a full cheek snaffle bit as described below.

The full cheek snaffle bit or Fulmer Bit is preferred - it will not slide through the horses mouth and does not require 'keepers' on the cheek straps . The prevention of the slippage sideways through the mouth is an essential part of the training.

bit1

Notice the straight bars and fixed ring.

The bit below is ok but less convenient as it requires a 'keeper' on the bridle cheek strap to stop the bit rolling in the horses mouth. The full cheeck snaffle bit shown above does not have that problem.

bit2

Notice the bent bars and loose rings. The bent bars are designed to fit into bridle cheek strap keepers.

The above bits are suitable but the "Tom Thumb" pictured below is not suitable as the side bars are not long enough to prevent slippage through the horses mouth.

bit3

'Tom Thumb', is not recommended. The side bars are too short.

 

Before and After Riding Horse Rug's by Mirotec

Protect your horse from muscle and tendon strain and injury. Also great for repairing existing soft-tissue damage or enhancing massage. Get more information about the Mirotec horse rugs and leg wraps.

 

Sports Medicine Boots

boots

Sports medicine boots are recommended. This is to protect the horses legs during training. We prefer the "Professionals Choice" brand but you may find another brand that satisfies you. During float training, float boots are not suitable as they usually slip down and under the hoof, thereby interfering with the training.

 

Lariat

lariat

A 9m (30') soft lariat is a useful tool in some training, especially for round-yard or spook control work. The main benefit is its relative stiffness compared to say a lunge line. It also does not tangle or knot up as easily as a lunge line while working.